Do not purchase expensive tools until you enjoy this video! I transformed an abandoned cars and truck rim and a spare motor into a heavy-duty, accurate homemade grinder.
Quick, cheap, and remarkably precise!
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Marvelous
Jose – I agree 👍!!
Good build 👍, IF you DON’T need the absolute HARD BACKING of the bare wood wheel with the resilience it gives you in your grinds –
When you’re setting up the face of the large Grinder Wheel, you shouldn’t Super-Glue the sand paper to the FACE of the wooden wheel.
_Instead_ –
Step-1 : Take a sheet of HOOK – side Hook and loop faster, and glue THAT to the face.
Also, instead of using Super-Glue which is NOTRIOUSLY _Shock-Sensitive_ so will FAIL after only MODERATE use, get some good Construction adhesive or even better – CONTACT CEMENT.
A thin facing coat of either with the center-region AND a strip JUST INSIDE the outer radius of the wooden wheel will HOLD much longer, would be WAY _MORE_ secure, and would provide a much better contact surface for your actual grinding surface.
A thin – 1″ (2cm) stripof Contact or Construction adhesive – _just_ at the edge-radius, with an open gap of about 1″ (~2cm) for a generous amount of THIN C.A. (“Super”) glue, around that open area AND at the center area (2″ diameter) you left at the center of the wheel, will act as a CLAMP holding the attached Hook-side of your Hook and loop sheet.
Otherwise, the entire surface gets a properly applied coat of either the Construction or Contact adhesive 👍.
Step-2 : Once you stick the Hook-sheet to the face, press into contact at the Super-Glue areas, lay the whole thing FACE – _down_ on a good flat surface, and lay some bricks or other heavy weight on the top, so secure the bonding.
ALOW it to _COMPLETELY CURE._
NOW you never have to attack the wheel in order to replace a spent Abrasive !
Instead, you Super-Glue the face of your Abrasive sheet – cut to it’s PROPER size – _to_ the LOOP-Side, and attach THAT – _loop-side_ – to the Hook-Side of your grinding wheel.
IF you DO need the hard surface, you can either Construction / Contact cement ADHESIVE a 1/8″ (~3mm) sheet of good mild steel to the face of the wooden wheel. This would not ONLY back up the overall result with a MUCH _STRONGER_ Grinding surface, it’ll ALSO add some “ballast” which will add to the overall quality of your grinding. BUT this is not necessary UNLESS you want these particular results. _IF_ you DO this, use 3 Counter-Sink Flat-Head WOOD Screws to secure the Chemical bond you get with the Construction or Contact Adhesive. . Set them as close to PERFECTLY 120d apart as you can POSSIBLY achieve, and your BALANCE _should_ be ok 👍.
*This is ONLY a suggestion.*
It’s ALL up to YOU 👍.
THIS build – AS PRESENTED is actually quite good in it’s simplicity and use of components you can find and use at little or no cost, and the build _itself_ is REALLY quite *good* , or I would never have stopped by to share this suggestion.
BTW – all of this _can_ apply to _BOTH_ flat-faces AND to the EDGE of the Wooden wheel ALSO, if you want THAT to be used for grinding TOO . This _could_ give you a grinder with your THREE _favorite_ “Coarseness” surfaces, with the EDGE-applications benefiting from a use of properly-sized (width) H & L _tape_ ,
*or* NOT – maybe better – _your_ call … 👍.
You might prefer the straight wood backing here for tool, axe or knife sharpening – with the tape only _IF_ *you* decide to USE H & L tape – either self-adhesive (not preferred) or applied as described above 👍.
Good LUCK – and _SAFE_ Making !