I have actually made another segmented wood turned bowl. This bowl is made from half a icosidodecahedron which is an 80 segmented sphere. The segments in this bowl are triangles and on those triangles I wished to make a puzzle pattern that twisted around the whole surface area of the bowl. I made this pattern by cutting the puzzle tabs from one triangle into the adjacent triangle enabling the puzzle pattern to cover across the structural pattern of the triangles. The sections are made from cherry wood and kaya wood.
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Tools utilized in this task can be discovered at
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Beautiful work. Like you said in the beginning this bowl will look awesome in walnut and maple. Maybe use 3 woods and make the pentatonic sections from 2 and the equilateral triangle sections from the third.
The end of router bits (and endmill cutters) will tend to wear more because it’s used more, leading to that very slight taper you noticed.
Looks great, Frank. Maybe you’ll see more contrast as the cherry darkens with time.
Yeah thought same thing. Be cool for a follow up even in a couple months
Frank, you have been amazing me for so long. I have no idea how you think on the level you do. Just to come up with a desiign blows me away. And then for the math and equasion well you leave me going in the other direction. Thank you! And the grain pattern is perfect!
I would set it in the sun, some UV should darken up the cherry and get you a bit more contrast. Nice piece!
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tricks I do not know
Megan: “Hotter”
Hopi: “Sweeter”
Joonie: “Cooler”
Yoongi: “Butter
So with toy and his tricks, do not read it to him that he writes well mamon there are only to laugh for a while and not be sad and stressed because of the hard life that is lived today.
Köz karaş: ” Taŋ kaldım ”
Erinder: ” Sezimdüü ”
Jılmayuu: ” Tattuuraak ”
Dene: ” Muzdak ”
Jizn, kak krasivaya melodiya, tolko pesni pereputalis.
Aç köz arstan
Bul ukmuştuuday ısık kün bolçu, jana arstan abdan açka bolgon.
Uyunan çıgıp, tigi jer-jerdi izdedi. Al kiçinekey koyondu wins taba algan. Al bir az oylonboy koyondu karmadı. ” Bul koyon menin kursagımdı toyguza albayt ” dep oylodu arstan.
Arstan koyondu öltüröyün dep jatkanda, bir kiyik tigi tarapka çurkadı. Arstan aç köz bolup kaldı. Kiçine koyondu emes, çoŋ kiyikti jegen jakşı dep oylodu. # 垃圾
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Even when your plans don’t come together perfectly , it still looks gorgeous.
You use walnut and maple because they are the best contrasting colors 😜 And the most beautiful contrast.
On our CNC, we use a flush trim router bit with a bearing to cut off the onion skin. We also slow the CNC travel down because the bit does flex causing tapers.
Okay, alternate theory on “induced” taper on cnc. Chips leaving the cut act as a very minor abrasive on the walls of the cut therefore the higher parts of the cut (closer to the collet) experience more exposure to the exiting chips than the bottom of the cut hence very minor taper. Just a wild theory from a non expert. Love all your videos…thanks.
Frank, I don’t know how you programmed the cut in the CNC (aside from the multiple step-downs I saw), but in machining (wood or metal, it all applies) when you want to straighten the wall of a cut, we use “spring passes”. You leave .005″ish around the entire periphery during step-downs, and then take multiple final passes at full-depth to clean the side-wall up. Do the first pass at the full .005″ step-over, then run 1-2 spring passes at the same toolpath. As each pass is made, there is less side-pressure on the end mill, and it “springs away” less. Should help a bit. It’s also heavily dependent on your length-diam ratio on the cutter, what we call 1D, 2D etc. Once you start getting out past 5D-ish, spring passes make a big difference. All the best.
@brennerheavy I suggested something like this probably a year or more ago. I really don’t think Frank reads comments so I stopped commenting on his channel.
@Drew Morgan I am pretty sure he reads comments. I got some answers over the years.
I think for his application just making the cuts a bit oversized would to the job. These are no fitting in steel after all 🙂
Yes, I agree, the taper he is seeing is deflection. Adding a finish pass, if there already isn’t one, plus a spring pass should get rid of most of it.
@Andrew Bird that definitely seems to be the problem
@Adam J. But if it were an alignment issue, the taper wouldn’t happen from all sides. I.e., it wouldn’t be a taper, but a lean, and it wouldn’t affect the fit so much.
Idk Frank, I really like the subtle color difference between the species. It works for me and looks fantastic. Great video as always.
Fantastic video as always.
I think there’s a similarity of the insert to a chess pawn. Maybe you can do an ultra challenge bowl with the rest of the chess pieces around the edge of the bowl. Imagine!
Oh man, it would be so cool to have an actual wooden sphere puzzle you could assemble.
I thought that’s what he’s making but thinking about it now i guess it’s very complicated with the all the angles
So he only simulated the look of it.😂 For now at least
I love your passion to push the limits of 3d woodworking, without making it needlessly complex.
Beautiful work as always. Maybe you could use that trick where you put a couple of drops of ca glue together with the regular wood glue. Hold the pieces together by hand for 30 seconds or so, so that the ca glue dries and then that will “clamp” the pieces together while the wood glue dries.
A beautiful bowl, I would like the higher contrast of the woods, but I also like the subtlety in this piece, Happy New Year, congrats on 600k, wooot
Great project Frank. The lessons learned from this one will make the next one fantastic. Thank you for sharing. Have a great 2022 and stay safe.
I wonder if you had put it under some strong UV lights for a few days before applying the finish, if that would have jump-started the darkening of the cherry. (or even just put it outside in some direct sunlight) I’m just curious as to what this will look like in a year or two after the cherry has darkened. Does the Kaya(sp?) darken also with time?
For a sphere, glue up the sections about 10-15 min, then join them all together. Then wrap in cling film, giving a slight stretch as you wrap. This will act to press everything roughly equal.
I really like how you explain your artistic process along the way and include your own critiques at the end. For those of us that are more engineer than artist, this is very nice.
At this point might as well model every piece in CAD, then waterline CNC everything with a ball nose end mill at something like 0.5mm (or even less) depth per pass. That will give you perfect tapered shapes to glue together instead of having to make triangles and tabs separately.