The method I show here takes time, effort and patience, but the outcomes are well worth it. Have you had a look at the price of precision squares lately? They are not providing away and with a little effort you can make the inexpensive low precision ones more than accurate sufficient for everything you usually use a square for. And you'll understand a way to inspect the accuracy of a square if it gets harmed in some method, like dropping it on a concrete floor.
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The method I show here takes time, effort and patience, but the results are well worth it. Have you checked out the price of precision squares lately? They are not giving them away and with a little elbow grease you can make the cheap low precision ones more than accurate enough for everything you normally use a square for. And you’ll know a way to check the accuracy of a square if it gets damaged in some way, like dropping it on a concrete floor.
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Love the thought process John…
Ok how long did that take? Better you than me! 😂
I try to never be perfect. Perfect looks weird and stands out
Perfection exist only in theory, never in practice.
This Man’s attention to detail and precision never ceases to amaze me.
Question , does it stay square with temperature change? This was something that I questioned during winter cause I don’t keep shop heated all the time.
Everything changes with temperate, but the amount of change is of no consequence – it’s too small to obsess over.
To straighten/flatten one of the edges, you might consider taping down some sand paper to a straight edge and then running the edge you want to flatten, against it. Would help ensure it’s dead flat and can be used as a reference surface. I like this process though. I might get a second framing square and try it out. Always good to have tools with extra precision.
There you go again John, making reality visible and making impossible achievable and proving that good enough is not good enough………
getting a machined straight edge is one of the best measuring ‘thing’ i bought. I know that .003 flat
The one I used is within .003″ over the 50″ length.
3:57 Filling Pain Alert
Great method, which accounts for say, an unknown flat on ones workbench edge.
Only thing I’d change is to strike the entire length instead of just hatchmarks to try and account for any imprecision in my pencil marks. Having said that, it’s probably only because I’m not there making the marks, and you may very well know your personal thickness of lead and strike angle
“Good enough for framing” is certainly a matter of perspective. When “square” is important, the error in the tool maps it’s way through the project, typically compounding the error. I always check a framing square on a counter at wherever I buy the thing, most squares aren’t, some are very close, I’ve never seen a perfect one. Your process, while a bit tedious, is well worth the effort. I have a couple that will get the treatment.
Excellent work, John! Really well done! 😮
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great tutorial and much more precise than using the punch. – Chris
Great stuff John! Sometimes the right answer is simply elbow grease and patience!
I’m impressed by how much your framing square was square before you squared your framing square square.
Happy New Year, John!
The 🇨🇦🐻❄️ in 🇩🇪
👍👏🙏
There should be 2 dimples on the framing square by the ID and OD of the corner when the metal moves with the season. Gently strike the ID dimple to flex more inward or do the opposite and string the OD dimple to flex outward. That is what they were made for.
exactly
A punch fixes the problem. Simple and easy fix