Developing high-end custom-made parlor game out of solid wood with the aid of the eufyMake E1 UV Flatbed printer.
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Hi David… did you know that official Jenga blocks have a quirk… not every block is the same size. Look it up.
You might have to do some sanding afterwards. ☺️
i was going to say this, they vary from up to 1mm thickness which allows you to pull them out
Came here to say this too, seems that everyone saw the Mark Rober video.
Sand them irregularly to give some micro-deviations to make the game still work as it’s supposed to.
He is aware of it and mentioned it on the podcast last week.
Requesting Battle Ship next!
I know UHF when I see it. It was filmed primarily in my home town of Tulsa. Fun fact. Rogers state University in Claremore has a broom closet dedicated to UHF
For your jenga… Timber!
I think u can route the pocket for marbles in the walls
That way u can use thinner plywood for the base
And i don’t see a point of folding it outwards
So u can use bigger hinges as u originally planned
Anyway u did great i like colors and sea vibes
Because many games have a similar board size, i would make each game on a ‘tray’, then build a table that accepts the trays like a chest of drawers, make a drawer at the bottom that’s sectioned for each game’s playing pieces. the top would be a conventional table., label the edge of each board
You may be able to make sime double sided.
Since you can print texture with the UV printer, you could print raised pockets around the marble holes.
you could do something campfire themed for “Jenga” like firewood
Good call. Hollow Stack or Short (the) Cord are two terms when selling firewood referring to making them look bigger than they are.
Maybe paint the acrylic holder for the Jenga blocks in a red and white stripe pattern, and call it “Lighthouse”?
If I had UHF playing in the background of my workshop, I would get absolutely nothing done until it was over.
A few ideas for capsize:
– Keep the frame the same but thin out the plywood. Probably 1/2 but you may be able to push it thinner since the game board will give it structure once glued down.
– If you keep the same design for the marble storage consider building it up around the edges to get the thickness back. Route out clearance on the other piece for when it folds. You might get two storage pockets during gameplay that way.
– Maybe enlarge the metal plate and print the rules on the back
The hinge problem here is a tough one because of the 3d nature of the interior. My ideas:
– Try those hinges you had (or source slightly bigger ones of the same style) and mortise them in. With some longer screws it may be okay.
– Find some 180 degree hidden/invisible hinges. Maybe the barrel kind. Put a few in the frame. Maybe thicken the game board so you can throw a few in there too.
– Run the frame around all sides of both halves. This will give you a partition twice the thickness of the frames when the game is open. Print the game on top of the frames where needed. Less elegant but you can more easily have a piano hinge there.
You could use your eufy to print the rules on the lid of a box that holds your marbles and dice. And maybe have a spot in the folded game board where that box nests in nicely, or just clicks into place with magnets?
Add a dice tower to it!
For a hinge, you could wrap strips of Velcro all the way around. Then you have a couple bands that act as a hinge and latch. If you wanted to get fancy you could use a fancy textile with Velcro sewed to the end of the strap.
Also, your remake had taken your channel to my favorite woodworking channel. Between you and Adam savage, I get my maker fix for sure
UHF makes this vid even better!
According to the comments, there’s supposed to be a variation in thickness for Janga. I had no idea! I appreciate everybody setting me straight, and it looks like I need to do a little bit more research. Also TONS of great suggestions for Capsize! I feel like we need to make a part two of this video now. 🙏❤
Maybe tiny amounts of future expansion and contraction of the wood would take care of it for you
For the jenga name you could use Floatsam, the debris that falls out a boat when it capsizes
For Capsize, instead of 3/4” plywood, keep the boarder wood the same, replace w/ 1/4” plywood, drill/cut through, 3D print a cup/box to hold marbles & die. It’ll still be 3/4” high underneath, but thinner surface. And you can uv resin print a cover on the underside and still make it fold in.
We love board games in our house and Aggravation is one of my wife’s favorites. I like how you went outside of the box (literally) on your version and made it truly unique. Games are fun! And UHF is a cinematic classic. Thanks for sharing!
Pocket the backside of the plywood and have a funky rib design in the plywood for structural stiffness