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The next band saw obstacle is to make most likely the most complex and challenging parts on a homemade machine, the wheel. It needs to be:
– precise and a 3D printer can do that quickly
– balanced which is hard to do with wood (however simple with 3D printing).
– have a small crown on the rim to make the blade track appropriately. Once again simple to design in with a 3D printed wheel, however difficult to do when making it from wood.
– strong which was the concern I answered in this video. The 3D printed wheel is definitely strong enough even when left under stress for an extended duration.
I printed the wheel in 10 pieces – 8 wheel sectors and 2 centers that took nearly 20 hours to print.
The error I made that triggered the wheel to wobble was having excessive clearance around the alignment pins that suit the holes in the wheel. A better method would be to either make it a tighter fit or make it so that it can be changed, i.e. bolted together rather than glued.
But wobble haw no effect on efficiency so a percentage is perfectly great.
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Check out 3D OCD!
https://www.youtube.com/@3DOCD
The next band saw challenge is to make probably the most complex and intimidating parts on a homemade machine, the wheel. It has to be:
– precise and a 3D printer can do that easily
– balanced which is hard to do with wood (but easy with 3D printing)
– have a slight crown on the rim to make the blade track properly. Again easy to design in with a 3D printed wheel, but difficult to do when making it from wood
– strong and that was the question I answered in this video. The 3D printed wheel is absolutely strong enough even when left under tension for an extended period.
I printed the wheel in 10 pieces – 8 wheel segments and two hubs that took almost 20 hours to print.
The mistake I made that caused the wheel to wobble was having too much clearance around the alignment pins that fit into the holes in the wheel. A better way would be to either make it a tighter fit or make it so that it can be adjusted, i.e. bolted together rather than glued.
But wobble haw no effect on performance so a small amount is perfectly fine.
I have had a printer for several years now and recently upgraded to the carbon with the hms. I have found myself using that printer a ton. I have always wondered how well parts for machines or machines from 3d parts would hold up and you are answering them for me. Thanks John…
I just got the X1C with the AMS, so there’s plenty more to come 🙂
I can’t imagine what you could achieve with unlimited funding. Always great work!
Don’t think of any grants or government help, they’re more concerned with taking than improving the country.
@@9and7 SHUT DOWN EVERY LIBRARY IN AMERICA TO FUND THIS GUY 🙏
@@maxinehardy9411 IT’s worse. He’s in Canada.
@@9and7 SHUT DOWN EVERY LIBRARY IN CANADA TO FUND THIS GUY 🙏
When you buy a hammer, everything around you becomes a nail. I felt it myself)
When you are creative and you buy a hammer, you get the most out of that tool, rather than leaving it hanging on the pegboard in your garage 🙂
@@JohnHeisz Peg board, the creative persons bane. My tools are stored on the bench top, lol.
With a multi material printer, you could print a tire directly on it with TPU. Just need to design the tire to be interlocking with the wheel, since TPU and PLA won’t adhear.
Awesome!! So who thinks “print a table saw blade!”
Well if you’d like John to end up in the hospital… you nutcases…
Oh I brought it up myself, hum, nevermind!
Well, I did make a saw blade from paper one time…
🙂
@@JohnHeisz Hmmm a CD mounted on an angle grinder was a cool effect though…….
STILL NOPE!!! 😀
I’m shocked how well this worked! Good idea using the eccentric bushing to adjust the concentricity of the wheel!
Well done John! 👍👍
Thanks 🙂
A design improvement would be to make the two halves of the wheel so the quarter segments of each half don’t align with one another when assembled. Also PLA is likely to yield over time. Heat from heave use of the saw will accelerate it, but just the blade tension should cause distortion in the wheel….
I don’t print nicknacks and Star Wars action figures. Pretty much 100% of things I print are functional mechanical parts. Pretty much all the parts I printed in PLA years ago are now warped or have otherwise yielded to stresses placed on them. Currently black ABS+ is my go to material for mechanical parts I want to last. There is no such thing an ideal filament for all prints, but I’ve printed phone, stereo and GoPro mounts for my car and over a year later sitting under stress in a hot car in the American south those parts are still unchanged from the day I printed them. PLA parts I would expect to have failed even if kept in a climate controlled space.
Everything I’ve done so far should be seen as experimental, mostly to test the viability of using 3D printed parts in this way. So using PLA is like testing the worst case example, but printing it strong enough to withstand the forces involved. I’m sure that half of the time PLA fails under load (warps, deforms) is due to it not being structured strong enough to begin with. After all, steel will bend, warp and deform if it’s undersized.
As for heat, band saw wheels don’t get hot (unless there’s something really wrong), and in fact are kind of self cooling with the rotating holes stirring the air. The only concern is the blade tension load and I left it tensioned for a week to test that. Not long term, but long enough to know that it should hold up well over time, especially if the tension is released regularly.
@@JohnHeisz Yes well PLA is the easiest plastic to print and strongest you don’t have to pay and arm and leg for, or need a commercial printer for. I have no doubt your wheel will hold up in the short term, but it will probably run into issues months or years from now as the part slowly yields to the blade tension.
On the flip side of that PLA becomes brittle at freezing temps, but PLA’s negatives mostly revolve around it’s sensitively to heat heat. Yielding over time to stress at room temperature is another big issue not often discussed. How quickly it yields will (IMO) depend on heat and stress. Basically the formula is Heat + Stress + Time = warping.
The first thing I ever printed was an adapter I designed to convert old Milwaukee 18v tools to use cheap available Ryobi batteries. I favored cuz unlike some batteries they have overload protection built in.
Anyhow just the small amount of spring tension from the Ryobi battery caches over a period of several months would warp the adaptor housing to point the battery would fall out.
I was able to use the adaptors for a few years all the same by using a heat gun every few months to heat the PLA and bend and hold the plastic back in shape till it cooled.
Ultimate the parts were retired after being dropped and glued back together too many times and I decided to switch to Makita batteries. Though had I not been able to reheat and reshape the parts regularly they wouldn’t have lasted 6 months.
Another satisfying video. Thank you😊
Nice work, John
Not perfect, but you’re making a great deal of progress on 3d printed parts. I’m really enjoying the series. OCD, a dimensional disorder. Very clever.
Great work John. I never thought that I’d have much use for a 3D printer, but now I use it more than my CNC. It’s very satisfying to design something (I also use Freecad) and then produce it. I’m now building a bigger printer – even more satisfying.
subbed, looking forward to more 3d printed goodies! Especially that pantorouter!
Wandel would commit a cardinal sin if he saw that wobble in one of his machines.
Nah, he’d just keep working on it until it wobbled less than a couple thou.
Very cool. It will be interesting to see how the wheel fairs over time in a year or three more so if you print the bottom wheel too. My only real issue with 3d printing parts is the shop starts to look like it was made by PlaySchool. The throat plate and guide bearing holders being red just looks like safety requirements, but the red wheel, and blue hub might take a bit of getting used to.
you never see them when the doors are closed.
@@KipdoesStuff And if it ever did matter, those could be re-printed in a more “serious looking” color. Just like John decided to reprint the hub to reduce the wobble, even though he said it didn’t really matter to the functionality of the wheel.
Sigh… meanwhile my bandsaw wants to kill itself when I introduce 1/4″ thick piece of plywood.
I assume that you’re keeping all of the wood parts so that when you’re done remaking the entire bandsaw with 3D printed parts, you’ll have all of the old parts to reassemble. Then you’ll have 2 bandsaws!!
Great work John, I never had any doubt in this project.
_Mission Impossible?_ …. Nah! This is *TOP GUN* … ❤
Have we got a new 3D printing Channel? *YEAH* ❤❤❤