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In my Woodworking for Mere Mortals method of woodworking, the most typical approach for signing up with two boards together is with a rabbet joint. Rabbets are strong, simple to make, and are a simple method to line up boards and square up an assembly. They're terrific for boxes, cabinets … they are my go-to technique for building drawers.
In this video, I'll show you how to make them safely and efficiently using a sacrificial fence.
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Nice! Thanks for the clear explanation.
Thanks for this video, Steve. You do such a good job explaining the basics of woodworking that we ‘weekend woodworkers’ tend to forget or that we don’t quite understand.
It’s always good to emphasize and be reminded of the fundamentals, isn’t it?
Thanks Steve, just ordered the clamps!
Still have to get dado stack, have some project coming where I definitely don’t want to go through 100 passes.
Great video! I bought the clamps after doing it the cheaper way and having that problem.
Please make a video of a safe re-sawing method on a table saw. I need to make a narrow board, such as half inch by four inches.
would love to see a kerfmaker jig
if I were to start woodworking I would probably buy a cheaper saw with a thin kerf blade and probably won’t fit a dado
I like to cut rabbets by making two passes at perpendicular angles. It does mean that for one pass the wood is up on edge, but it makes a very clean cut.
But you have holes in your fence for attaching the board. Just counter sink the screws and put nuts on the back.
Know what I love the most about this video? How your shop actually looks like you do something in it, not a pristine, sanitized operating room where you could eat off every surface like it was a plate.
Thank for being so thoughtful about woodworking, but also about what’s healthy and beneficial for YouTube and the schmucks who spend too much time watching it (without doing any woodworking…).
Did you just call me a schmuck? lol. I’m hoping this spring or summer is the time I finally become a weekend woodworker…
Dont get the rip fence clamps, get the kind with a dovetail on one side and then you can use it for all kinds of jigs
As always a great insightful video. Only issue I had was dado stacks are not available in the UK (and other EU countries I believe). I was thinking you were going to show some fancy jig like
Matthias Wandel has created over on his excellent channel.
I was hoping he had an alternative as well. No dado stacks in Australia either.
I think we’ve all been dying to know the story of what happened to your rip fence. I know I have. 🙂
Once upon a time Steve got the blade too close to his rip fence. The End.
No matter how deep I go down the woodworking rebate hole, I don’t think I’ll ever outgrow WWMM.
More of this please.
I saw these techniques in action from you a million times and I just watched it again for some reason 🙂
Really excellent tips, Steve! Thanks for all the info! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Always good to see another Steve video… Great information, and it’s coming from Steve who is always terrific to watch.
Thanks again Steve!
Want to throw in, I have the Rockler clamps. Only buy them in the corner clamping set. Then you get the fence clamps, plus a corner (L) clamp and it’s just a little more than buying the fence clamps alone. Then it’s worth the price. But fence clamps alone. No. Save money.
If the dado stack has eaten part of the sacrificial fence, does that throw off the depth of the rabbet? How would you ensure you get the right measurement?
You are able to “overstack” the dado slightly and let a little go into the sacrificial fence. Still want to do a couple test cuts to dial in the width that is exposed. I like this better than doing a test cut only to find out you need to add or subtract a shim from the stack. Nudging the fence is much quicker.
I’m curious if you have ever cut rabbets by making two cuts at perpendicular angles. It is my current favorite method for rabbets although it does not work for dado’s. Always like to hear opinions.
This is the method I use, also. First cut on the flat side of the board, with the blade set precisely for the width and depth of the rebate. Second cut is along the edge of the board, with the fence set precisely to the depth of the rebate. But the blade height isn’t so precise, just within the thickness of the blade used to make the first cut.
This is very repeatable because if you have a lot of boards then make the first cut in all of them. Then adjust your setup once and make the second cut in all of them.
A bonus is that, for both cuts, the blade is buried in the stock. So the method is also very finger friendly.
Using this method, your rebates can reproduce very efficiently.
Steve, you’re the coolest. Have you done a video on updating closet storage?