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Take your woodworking to the next level with vacuum press veneering. Veneering enables you to get the most out of important woods and utilize plywood and MDF when you require to avoid expansion and contraction. Utilizing a vacuum press will get you more pressure and more even pressure than clamps alone. A vacuum press also allows you get pressure where clamps might never go and work around curved surfaces for innovative woodworking. Depending upon your spending plan there are multiple methods to enter vacuum pushing. At the upper end are devoted air pump that immediately turned off and on to preserve pressure over extended periods of time. The happy medium is a continuous pump as we're utilizing in the video. And the least expensive intro into vacuum press veneering is utilizing a hand pump. Vacuum bags can be acquired or made. Although you can use regular wood glue, there are unique glues utilized when vacuum forming that avoid bleed through and dry harder than typical PVA glues.
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Products used in this video (Offered by Rockler).
Vacuum Bag:.
Vacuum Pump:.
Vacuum Pods:.
Vacuum Port Adapter:.
Hand Pump:.
Veneer Saw:.
Veneer:.
Veneer Glue:.
Glue Roller:.
Netting:.
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I’m looking forward to the piano. When you mentioned it on the podcast I was thinking more like the old school electric keyboard not a real piano. That’s a big job!
I was thinking the same and yes sir it is! I’m confident it’ll turn out great. 👍🏼
Very cool process! I already have a vacuum pump for silicone and epoxy casting so this might be something for me to look into in the future. Also excited to see the follow up videos from this like the piano that’s gonna be sick!
Very nice job David. Very nice video can’t wait to see part 2 of this. Keep up the great craftsmanship and hard work my friend. Keep making. God bless.
Hey, another added entry level option in between hand pump and vacuum pump. You can also get those clothing vacuum ‘storage’ bags and a shop vac or household vacuum. They are not as big, but they are designed for long term storage (they have a good seal), reusable, and perfect for something like this on a smaller scale.
That was my first thought as well. I have a couple of extra large storage bags that don’t hold vacuum well and am wondering if a shop vac will be OK running for an hour or so until the glue sets up.
@Johnny West every bag is different, but typically those storage bags can hold a seal very well. As they are designed for long term storage. You should be able to suck out the air and leave it. Unless of course there’s a small hole
@Pacific North Workshop I have some smaller Hefty bags that hold the vacuum well, but three Magic Bed brand I bought for comforters lose their vacuum over time. They’ve been that way since I bought them, but I’ll have to test them to see if they’ll hold up for an hour or two.
Nice, this will take your wood working to the next level for sure! Looking forward to seeing how the piano turns out! 👍🏼
This was great and I can’t wait to see the next one!
I might give this a shot now. I also was intimidated by the process, but with plywood costing roughly $100K per sheet now could be the time! Great video dude!
You had me laughing, “okay, I’m just going to put this on the floor where I can step on it in a bit…” been there, do that regularly 🤣
Alright, you convinced me. I’ve been holding off for years myself. But if Dave can do it…;). Great tip about the veneer glue. Didn’t know that was a thing. In the boat building world, bubble wrap is often used for that bleeder ply. The fruit bag netting looks a little wrangly. Something for you to consider. Thanks Dave.
Another way is to use your shop compressor with a Venturi accessory. Cheap and works fine.
Think you could use this method to glue any two faces together like when laminating two 3/4″ plywood boards for a thick table top? That might be easier then fussing with cauls.
Perfect timing on this video… for me… Thank you! My bags and stuff just arrived from Rockler. I am remaking cabinets for so 1960’s Dynaco speakers. I am trying to make them look as original as possible. The veneer originally used was teak. Teak will be used again. I am hoping the TB veneer glue will be ok with this oily wood. I will precondition with acetone to get as much surface oil off the glue surface as possible. Per your recommendation… I am heading to the store to get a slab of melomine this afteroon. I am also very glad to learn about the glue roller you use…. I am placing my order for that and the try right now. Thank you!
Pretty interesting process indeed, Dave! 😃
Thanks for all the tips!!!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Great video David. I’m wondering if you really need to veneer both sides since you’re already using plywood, which is made up of several layers of veneer already. Seems a bit of overkill to me, especially with prices as they are these days.
I enjoyed this. I cannot wait to see part two with the bended wood! Great video.
Really cool. Was wondering what the m shaped wood looked like when you talked about it on the podcast. Looks cool 🤙
I feel you on the red oak. It’s like either dinner in Grandma’s ‘new’ kitchen in the 80’s or dinner at Arby’s.
I was wondering why you did not know about the mesh and low and be hold you remembers.
The last vac veneering project was with one of my students. 3/4”-18mm Baltic birch ply veneered with some very beautiful and expensive teak veneer. With both leaves slid out it’s about 9’ long. We have an 52”x100” bag. There are much better mesh out there. I’ll see about sending you a pic of the table. His house is all teak.
Just FYI, I have a Roarockit bag as well. I use the hand pump, and it will maintain a vacuum overnight. The pump looks like a nice luxury, but if you don’t have one, you don’t necessarily have to be watching it constantly
That is good to know! Thanks!
If you already have a compressor in your shop, could you use its air intake as a makeshift vacuum pump ?