Enjoy part 2 here:
Part 1:
Now that the concrete base is dry enough, I can proceed to extending the side by 3 inches and getting the leadscrews and linear bearings for the Y axis installed. Like the CNC this replaces, the leadscrews are made from standard threaded rod. I utilized 5/8" for the leadscrews to reduce whipping (where the rod wobbles when it turns quick) and the 3D printed couplers are threaded so that the leadscrew screws in.
The side extensions are capped with 1/8" thick aluminum to help stiffen the assembly and also to keep crap from falling into the direct bearings and leadscrews.
How I made that self-centering drill bit:
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Watch part 2 here: https://youtu.be/bnGUe7xMxS8
Part 1: https://youtu.be/M_tlXAoWjVI
Now that the concrete base is dry enough, I can move on to extending the side by 3 inches and getting the leadscrews and linear bearings for the Y axis installed. Like the CNC this replaces, the leadscrews are made from standard threaded rod. I used 5/8″ for the leadscrews to minimize whipping (where the rod wobbles when it turns fast) and the 3D printed couplers are threaded so that the leadscrew screws in.
The side extensions are capped with 1/8″ thick aluminum to help stiffen the assembly and also to keep crap from falling into the linear bearings and leadscrews.
How I made that self-centering drill bit: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHKvq4ewxGg
I really enjoy how you keep using plastic parts even though people are skeptical of them, and how they keep working. Looking forward to the next episode! 🙂
Creative, interesting, GR8 build
Good times John good times. I look forward to “I moved 200 pounds of concrete and lived to tell about it” video.
Really cool!
Your talent never ceases to amaze me. I’m glad you’re uploading again! I missed your videos on the weekends.
It’s looking great, John! 😃
Looking forward to the next steps!
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Hey John your thumb nail looked like a pickup bed at first after a second look I saw it was your CNC base. lol
If that plastic mounting plate starts to look like it’s going to let go, you can use the last few moments of its life to make new ones out of aluminium 🙂
The finished project is never truly finished 🙂
10:40 the only way those screws would let go is if you were to tug on it real hard. the way the forces are in this application a simple nail would probably work fine.
You’re so innovative. It’s amazing what you can do! I’m waiting for your video of your own, improved, SpaceX rocket that you made on your 3D printer and CNC machine and then showing it to Elon Musk.
John if I need any CNC milling done during the apocalypse, I’ll be in touch, ok? In a world full ink-jet printer (esp their feed mechanisms) and cupboard-door hinges (screwing into chip/particle board) not to mention flat-pack furniture, you are a true inspiration to after-market retro-fit aspirations!
Thanks for the video, Emile from CT.
Experience is not always about preventing mistakes, but rather it’s about learning how to recover from them.
Nice work man
I wish you all the best
Taking up backlash is job 1 for the lead screw nut tbs, but all that extra length also greatly reduces stress on the much softer plastic nut. If anything John is too modest. Well conceived, well planned, well executed! Just another Tuesday for Mr. Heisz!
I am loving this series 🤩. Keep them comming!
I have some issues with your construction:
1) using wooden boards as the base for the guide rails pretty much destroys most of the stiffness you got from the concrete base. Why not mount the guide rails directly to the concrete base? You’d have to make sure the surface is sufficently flat though, but there are ways to take care of that. Also, you mentionned that you want to use coolant, I wouldn’t trust wood anywhere on my machine in that case. Wet wood will change its dimensions, lowering accuracy. The linear rails look like the cheap chinese ones too, can’t trust that those are straight, and the wood isn’t strong enough to straighten it out.
2) if I see it correctly you are using only the motor bearings on one side and a normal ball bearing on the other side as bearings for the leadscrew, right? That’s not a good design, stepper motor bearings are only held in place by a spring washer, so you can push the shaft in a bit. The roller bearing on the other side doesn’t add much rigidity either. Having a nut with practically no backlash is good, but it doesn’t help you much if the leadscrew itself can move. I’d replace the ball bearing with two thrust bearings, one of each side, and preload them with nuts. I put in a pair of thrust bearings in the cross slide of my lathe and it really help to get backlash out of it, backlash is around .001″ now.
You are wrong on both of your points, But thanks for being arrogant enough to let the world know.
@@KipdoesStuffcare to explain why?
Great work John. I almost don’t feel compelled to tell you what you did wrong, lol. Nope, perfect as far as I can see.
I’ve missed these types of videos from you John.