After weeks of intense research I have actually developed the ideal formula for completing my woodworking jobs. Given us by Squarespace. For 10% off your first purchase, go to:
I'm only offering this surface to Patreon members (at cost) to collect feedback at the moment. I'm not attempting to earn a profit and I do not like delivering so I'm attempting to limit the amount I sell. If you're looking to buy it simply to support me there's no requirement! Seriously! It will only ship by means of ground USPS in the United States. Shipping is delayed as I'm gathering the necessary certificates to deliver harmful materials (ethanol). Likewise due to shipping restraints of corrosive products, I will require to lower the size from 25oz to 16oz. Patreon members likewise get early and ad-free videos, behind the scenes videos as well as access to our private Discord.
Disclaimer: I am neither a chemist, a scientist, nor a specialist in any field. Your safety is your own obligation. Please do not take my words as truth; instead, perform your own research. Always take all essential safety measures when dealing with unidentified compounds. This video is planned exclusively for home entertainment purposes.
★ PART 1 FORMULA ★
75% Boiled Linseed Oil/ 25% Shellac
To make a 25oz mixture usage 18oz of BLO mixed with 6oz of shellac. Technically the shellac and BLO will not totally incorporate. This is an advantage! This enables the BLO to soak down into the wood while the shellac stays on the surface for a more protective finish. You will need to shake this mixture very well before each use. It is extremely essential that utilized rags are effectively dried due to the fact that they can spontaneously combust!!
1. Shake well.
2. Rub elixir into wood with a lint complimentary rag.
3. After 15 minutes rub out any standing oil.
4. Set out used rags to dry before discarding.
5. Wait 24 hours and use wax.
6. Make more stuff.
★ PART 2 WAX ★
1 part carnauba Wax/ 1 part beeswax/ 4 parts boiled linseed oil/ 2 parts citrus solvent.
To make 12 fluid ounces of this wax you'll need to melt in a double boiler 1 oz by weight of beeswax, 1 oz by weight of carnauba wax, 4 oz by weight of boiled linseed oil and 2 oz by weight of citrus solvent.
1. Rub on with grey Scotch-Brite pad. Wait thirty minutes.
2. Rub off with white Scotch-Brite pad. Take pleasure in for a life time.
★ PRODUCTS USED (Affiliate Links) ★
Pure Swedish Boiled Linseed Oil:
De-Waxed Super Blonde Shellac Flakes:
Everclear 190 Proof/ 95%:.
Medical Grade Ethanol:.
200 Proof Ethanol 99.07%:.
Coffee Mill:.
Glass Container Used for Shellac:.
Bottles Utilized:.
Jars Used:.
Beeswax:.
Carnauba Wax:.
Citrus Solvent:.
Countertop Burner:.
Cooking area Scale:.
Paint Preparation Wipes:.
Grey Scotch-Brite Pads:.
White Scotch-Brite Pads:.
★ VIDEOS DISCUSSED ★.
Thos Moser:.
Walnut Stereo Stand:.
Woodworkers Secrets Revealed – Click Here to Discover the #1 Woodworking Resource!
I have been following the development of this on the podcast so very cool to see the details.
This has been one of the most highly anticipated videos I have been waiting for!
This was great! Thanks man! I’ve been always searching for something like this. 😊
The best part of this is how we can tell how excited and proud of the finish you are. Good work and kudos.
Nicely done. Thanks for going through the process and being comfortable in sharing it.
This is an excellent example of the dedication to all aspects of the craft.
For long term stability testing coatings companies fill a small glass jar with the coating and place it in an oven at 40°C. They then check the jars weekly and evaluate the state simply by inverting the jar, no need to open the lid, if the formula is unstable you will see gelling in the jar or a thickening of the formula. A good formulation should last many months. This evaluation will also give you an idea of the compatibility of the components together, there maybe separation which is acceptable if the components go back into solution simply by shaking the jar.
Amazing wood finish, very clever packaging and branding. I think Bob’s right… you’ve really got something here.
This is awesome. I’m totally inspired. I hate the chemical smell of finishes.I use a Presto Pot to make candles. I added a ball valve and spout to easily decant. I will be experimenting with making my own finishes. Thanks for the formulations and the continued inspiration.
Saying this in the “happiest” tone possible….Thanks so much for sharing your hard work and research. Take care and stay healthy and safe.
Been looking forward to this since you started talking about it on the podcast. Amazing results here. My wife is very sensitive to solvents in finish, I might have to try this out. Thanks for sharing!
Love the amount of research you put into this one, your excitement shows. Thanks for sharing.
That is indeed a beautiful finish. You cannot beat the combination of oil and wax to bring out the real beauty of the grain….and I like the idea of it smelling like oranges.
Well done, very professional
Not only your research but the presentation
Thank you
Video starts, recipe is immediately given away, yet I’m still here watching. I’m not a woodworker, I watch your videos for your design process. I enjoy the way you are always looking for new ways to accomplish what you are trying to do. This is another one of those. Your insights on creating and using this finish and your thought process were far more important to me than the recipe.
❤️
I’m only selling this finish to Patreon members (at cost) to gather feedback at the moment. I’m not trying to make a profit and I dislike shipping so I’m trying to limit the amount I sell. If you’re looking to buy it just to support me there’s no need! Seriously! More info in the description. Thank you! ❤
I appreciate this… have played around with natural finishes, this honors the wood more than off the shelf stuff if that makes sense, and makes working with it more enjoyable. And when you stare at the finished product, it means more
I’m old, so I remember Homer Formby hawking his formula on TV. He is now a multi-millionaire. The young people need you now, go for it. Nice finish, and I would buy it. I don’t need all the chem to make it myself, so yes, I would buy it from you.
You briefly mentioned that rags soaked on finish CAN self-combust. Lemme tell you a story…
Very early in my woodworking life, I had been contracted to make simple wooden totes. The buyer specified raw linseed oil as a coating. Contract for 200. So, I went to work. I personally prefer small batch runs…dunno why. After assembling the totes, I brushed on a heavy layer of oil, let it sit as long as it took me to do all 200, then wiped off the excess with paper towels. Took the nasty paper out back to the burn pile, slept…then went to work the following day (yeah…I had a day job). The phone rings, coworker hands it to me. It was my brother…”Shop just burnt down” Well, it didn’t, but he had my attention. He had tried to extinguish the fire with a water hose and when all that did was spread the fire he called the pros. They came and used some type of smothering foam. Bro tried to blame it on my nasty habit of smoking, but the fire captain, noting several empty cans of raw linseed oil about told him about the self-combusting properties of the oil. That spot? Nothing grew there for years…no grass, no weeds, just a bare spot of dirt.
So, the moral of the story is handle oily rags with extreme care. Take them outdoors away from any building or structure you care about. Lay them out in such a manner that they can dry and/or cure on their own. Do NOT stack or pile them…lay them out in single layers. When dry, you can dispose of them in whatever your normal disposal manner is.
I still use linseed oils, waxes, and other flammable finishes, but have constructed a ‘drying’ rack from scrap boards and dowels to hang nasty rags on for curing…out of direct sunlight.
Be safe!
Wow, what a lesson. Thank you for sharing.
As a fellow experimenter, I very much enjoyed your video. I usually make very small batches of product for wood turnings. I have also added diatomaceous earth, dental pumice, and rotten stone to make all natural friction polishes with beeswax and natural oils. Another company to look at for all natural, chemical free oils is “Tried and True.” They make three all natural oil/wax/resin products. Great video, thanks.
What a great idea, philosophy and recipe! I am predicting a very well received product. Critical to me is proper curing/drying time. Hardening time and ingredients another entire subject. Well done and stay safe, from an old retired shop teacher.